Powder paint was developed primarily to paint jig heads but it can be used to paint many other types of metal fishing lures. Powder paint is a dry powder made up of fine particles of thermoplastic. After curing with heat, it becomes a shiny durable finish tougher than most solvent based paints.
Shake well before using. Shaking breaks up the lumps that may have formed during storage. Always store in a cool dry area. Oven thermostats vary. Some experimentation may be needed to find the setting that works best for you.
All metal parts must be preheated prior to applying powder paint. Use pliers or forceps to hold parts while heating and when dipping into powder paint. If painting individual fishing lure components, use a lighter or torch for heat. If many parts are to be painted, place parts in a pie pan and heat in an oven to 400 degrees. Dip fishing lure components into powder paint and immediately knock off excess by tapping pliers on the lip of the jar.
Parts are the correct temperature when the paint melts within 2 or 3 seconds. Clean hook eye before curing.
Fishing lures finished with our powder paint can be fished without curing. For the toughest finish available, our powder paint must be cured. Curing is easily done by hanging parts in an oven heated to 350 degrees for 15 minutes. If you forgot to clean the hook eye before curing, it can be cleaned by using a hot hook point.
Lure eyes can be added by applying our stick on eyes or painting on eyes using vinyl lure and jig finish.
Glitter may melt when exposed to high heat. We offer a clear powder paint topcoat that contains heat resistant glitter. Glitter Powder Paint Topcoat.
Layer different colors of powder paint in a jar. Dip your lure into the powder paint, passing through the different colors. It will leave a swirled finish on your lure.
Grip the spinner blade at hole with pliers or forceps (locking forceps work best) to maximize powder paint coverage. Heat the entire spinner blade just long enough to get the powder paint to stick. Forceps act as a heat sink, so heat the tips of your forceps as you heat the blade.
Dip the blade into the powder paint and stir a little bit to make sure the blade is coated all over. Tap forceps on lip of bottle to help remove excess powder paint. At this point, the blade should have a smooth dull coat of powder paint. Brush off any excess that may be left on the blade. Hang in oven heated to 350 degrees for 15 minutes. Paint will become shiny and harden to a chip proof finish.
Use clear powder paint on brass and copper blades and spoons to eliminate corrosion. Far superior to clear lacquer, powder paint does not chip along the edges. Clear powder paint allows you to paint on a nickel spinner blade. After clear finishing with powder paint, your vinyl paint will now stick to a nickel plated spinner blade. You can two-tone, stripe, or dot any spinner blade.
A fluid bed gently mixes air into your powder paint eliminating the need to stir the paint to keep it from packing together. This gives you complete control of coating thickness. Jig eyes usually stay open and blade actions aren't affected.
Powder Paint sticks to head but remains a dull color - Head is too cool. Continue to heat the heat until the paint becomes shiny.
Paint immediately turns shiny and begins to bubble - Head is too hot. Reduce the amount of time you are heating the parts.
For best results, use an optional white base coat of white powder paint when using light and fluorescent colors.